Design Details

Final Photos

Within my shoot I was aiming to communicate the idea of dysmorphia to show that the silhouettes I was creating were not an accurate representation of a real human shape. I was interested in shooting in a hall of mirrors which would have shown this concept very well, however it proved difficult to find a suitable location and I was also worried about being able to take pictures that would not have me, the photographer, visible in them. Instead I kept the photos simple, against a white wall and added this haunting dysmorphic effect in post production. I also tried to get the idea that the model was ill across by using make up to show fatigue and bodily failure.

With some of the poses I wanted the model to point out 'flaws' that weren't there - the idea that they are grabbing on their non-existent imperfections.

Final Toile Development

 As I chose quite complex designs, they required a lot of toileing and redrafting in order to achieve the perfect shapes. These included adding darts, separating pieces into panels and adjusting
sizing. Although this was time consuming I was glad that I put in the extra effort in order to create garments of a higher standard.

Final Designs

I narrowed down my designs to a four look capsule collection which I then presented as a proposal to my tutor and peer group in order to choose two final outfits to construct. I ended up merging the trousers from look 3 with the jacket from look 1 as well as the entirety of look 2.

Technical Drawings of Final Outfits 

Look 1 

Top My top was inspired by the idea of body dysmorphia and illusion vs. reality. The slim fitting black bodice represents the real shape of the sufferer, whilst the excess green mesh shows how large they believe they are. I intend to create the black body in leather but will have to carry out some testing. However I feel that this fabric would work really well, especially combining the idea of restriction.

Trousers The trousers follow the idea of fighting against the idea of 'thigh gaps' and seeks to show the total opposite silhouette can be equally beautiful. They will be constructed in wool (itchy), with the middle panel made in a soft napa which I feel will represent skin but still look beautiful and luxurious.

I have also thought about the idea of connecting the sleeves to the trouser legs which will further restrict the user. This mirrors the mental thoughts of the sufferer, their eating method of 'restricting' caloric intake and the way that their life in general is restricted as a result of their illness.

Look 2

Jacket This jacket was inspired by the idea of 'love handles', an insult people often inflict upon themselves and others. Again it features a contrast between excess fabric and tight restriction. The collar comes right up to the chin in order to emphasise the idea of restriction and suffocation - the inability to breathe due to the oppressive nature of an eating disorder.

Trousers Like the top in Look 1, the trousers represent the idea of a dysmorphic perspective of the body - this time the black mesh is indicative of the false reality whilst the green shows the true silhouette.

Designs

In order to generate designs I looked at the various areas of the body people show concern over, and used the responses from my questionnaire and my drawings in order to shape my silhouette. I then draped fabrics on the mannequin and tried to either enhance these areas of restrict the body in some way e.g. high suffocating necklines, excess fabrics at the waist, thighs and arms and the inability to move either arms or legs resulting in restricted movement for the wearer of the garment.

Fabric Selection

 I have obtained various fabric samples that I feel represent my concept well - uncomfortable, skin-like or repetitive. I am looking into using wool as it is an itchy fabric and would communicate the idea of being uncomfortable within your own skin. I am also very interested in using leather as I think it could show the idea of 'excess skin' very well. Finally I have decided to use a mesh as I feel that it shows an obsession - many sufferers of mental disorders follow strict routines and rules which are therapeutic when carried out. I also feel like the use of holes shows a vulnerability because the wearer will not be completely covered.

Colour Choices

Responding to Research

   These are some pages from sketchbook documenting the way in which I have responded to the various research I have undertaken and have tried to personalise my findings.

After viewing the documentary 'THIN', reading the shame edition of the magazine 'Vestoj' and examining Natalia Pereira's work 'Dismorfobina', I realised that a huge part of eating disorders was this discomfort with one's own body.  I would like to try and represent these emotions in some way in my designs e.g. with the use of restriction or uncomfortable fabrics.

In order to gain more first hand research I also carried out a questionnaire to find out which areas of the body women are most self conscious about. With these answers I created a series of illustrations communicating this idea by exaggerating these parts of the body - areas which I will definitely concentrate on when it comes to designing garments.

I thought that it was important to recognise this current and prevalent issue of young girls having 'thinspirations' to whom they aspire to model their body from and the way in which they encourage each other to obtain 'thigh gaps' via pro ana blogs and forums. In an attempt to fight back I have taken the idea of a 'thigh gap' to the other extreme by planning garments which have no gap at all between the legs. I want to try and show that despite not having the 'optimum body shape', you can still appear beautiful.